![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:09 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Rolling the windows up in this car has zero effect on cabin noise. Also, not bad for $350 and I can make a lot of jokes about that price. Mustang GT$350. TreeFiddyStang. Etc. I could go on. Mostly I just wanna figure out WTF in my exhaust is obnoxiously rattling before I rip my ears out.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:11 |
|
You didn’t learn last time?!
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:13 |
|
Shhh it is more entertaining for us this way.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:15 |
|
Alright, I concede the point...
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:17 |
|
The Loch Ness Mustang: it needed about three fiddy.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:17 |
|
This needs to be a homebrew SVO
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:18 |
|
Kinda hard to pass up $350 for a running driving car. I’ve been lusting over this thing for three years and for three years it sat in my buddy’s field.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:19 |
|
Check for a loose heat shield. A nice big hose clamp around each catalytic converter took care of mine.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:19 |
|
Nah. V8 coming Eventually (tm). I’ve had turbo 4 cars. I’ve never had a V8 RWD one and really, really want to. So when the girlfriend is done with this as her daily it’s getting a Summit Racing catalog hurled firmly in its direction.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:20 |
|
I can only imagine the mountain of scrap you’re going to have. LOL.
Keeping it Ford?
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:22 |
|
Yeah I think it’s a combination of the catalyst rattling around inside the converter and loose heat shields. The solution is usually hose clamps for the heat shields and then some long-ass wood screws through the converter to hold the core in place. If it leaks where they were screwed in I can weld it.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:23 |
|
Probably. 5.0s swap into these insanely easy. Some subframe connectors to keep things from getting schwifty, err, twisty, and it’s all good. I’m all about cheap and easy.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:25 |
|
Torque boxes look good?
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:30 |
|
What’s a torque box?
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:39 |
|
Where the control arms on the rear react. Not sure how big a problem it really is for low-ish power, but worth looking at just in case.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 11:59 |
|
I dunno. Plan is a stock 5.0HO with the C3 and puny rear end. Add some weld-in subframe connectors to avoid twisting the chassis and the moderate power from a stock emissions-squeezed 5.0 shouldn’t nuke the trans or dif immediately and give me time to upgrade those in stages.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 15:49 |
|
google around I found a book that had a bunch of fox body projects and had plans for subframe connectors and strut bars and stuff like that to make yourself and save a crap load of money. Assuming you own a welder and tools.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 16:25 |
|
I do, but the weld-in style is really cheap on CJ pony parts to the point where it doesn’t make sense to waste hours trying to make it myself to save the $30 extra over teh cost of materials
![]() 03/02/2017 at 12:02 |
|
If you have the time, do a 347 stroker build from a 5.0 block.
Summit has a kit.
![]() 03/02/2017 at 12:05 |
|
“time”
I think you mean “money”. I was going to buy a 5.0HO with wiring harness and computer this weekend for $400 but the guy sold it out from under me. Dick. Oh, well.
![]() 03/02/2017 at 12:41 |
|
daaamn. but are you planning to rebuild the 5.0 you get or just run it as is?
![]() 03/02/2017 at 12:51 |
|
If I can hear it running before I get it and it sounds alright I’ll probably just replace the rear main seal and dump it in the car.
![]() 03/02/2017 at 13:03 |
|
fair enough.